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Flower Crowns Through History
Updated: Jul 7
Photo credit; Wayne C Watson
For many people, the Met gala or the Baftas, the event they stay up late to see photos of the next day. However for me, Solstice at Stonehenge is comparable to fashion week (and I go to fashion week every season). Flower crowns are usually (unless you make your own) made by florists. Lets talk about flower crowns in Egypts New Kingdom and the florists.
Egypts New Kingdom
One of Egypts New Kingdoms most prominent florists was Nedjemger, the overseer in the Garden of the Ramesseum during the reign of Rameses II. The overseer of the garden held official status and his tomb, located near the Ramesseum temple, is a floral wonderland. It’s decorated with scenes of Nedjemger receiving beautiful garlands and bouquets from his team of florists. One scene shows florists in action, crafting their work and presenting them to Nedjemger.
However lets talk about his boss, Rameses II and the garlands he wore designed by Nedjemger.
The Discovery
Around 3000 years later discovering some of Rameses possessions was Georg August Schweinfurth a botanist in the 19th century (some of Schweinfurth’s letters are held at Kew Gardens, London)
During his examinations, identifying and and documenting the intricate floral adornments, including the collar of Ramesses II,Schweinfurth theorised that the coffin wall was so tight that the floral compositions had to be flat and thin. Only plants with strong, leathery textures made the cut, folded over a date palm string. Flowers such as Acacia, poppy and cornflowers were used.
We also want to add while floral garlands have so many stories, a cousin of one of muses also excavated quite a few garlands.
In 1906, Ernesto Schiaparelli (a cousin of our muse, the underrated designer Elsa Schiaparelli, what a talented family) was excavating in Deir el-Medina when he discovered the intact tomb of the architect Kha ( architect to kings Amenhotep II, Thutmose IV, and Amenhotep III.
In Kha's undisturbed tomb, several floral garlands were found on his coffins and other funerary objects. When Schiaparelli lifted the lid of the outermost coffin, he found a garland of plant materials on the middle coffin. Another vegetative collar was found around the neck of the innermost coffin.
Photo credit; Marija Tomashevska
The history of archeology and excavation in Egypt a topic we wish to cover entirely separately however let's move onto our next topic which covers gold hairpins.
Ming dynasty China
Flower headdresses aren’t just made of foliage. Metal and feather plumes also count. Hairstyles and headdresses have been highly esteemed throughout ancient Chinese history, serving as indicators of social status, cultural values, and personal adornment. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), both men and women placed great importance on their hair.
In the 16th century, European travellers like Portuguese friar Gaspar da Cruz and Spanish missionary Martín de Rada provided valuable observations about Chinese hairstyles. Cruz noted that men wore their hair long, tied tightly on top of the head, often secured with a silver needle, and believed that long hair could help them ascend to heaven. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), both men and women placed great importance on their hair and headdresses, which were integral components of their attire.
Does a feather headdress count as a ‘flower’ one. Debatable. But this archeological find is just too fascinating not to talk about. An 1956 excavation at the Dingling tomb in China revealed around 3000 artefacts from the Wanli king and his consorts who ruled during the Ming dynasty. Many of those 3000 artefacts were clumsily excavated due to lack of technology; however four phoenix crowns were found in the tomb.
Other examples survive at the Art Institute of Chicago and Scotland's National Museum
Photo Credit; The National Museum of Scotland
Pictured A kingfisher headdress from Scotland national museum (for more information click here)
Latvia
Lastly, I wanted to delve in to how fabric flower crowns were used. A popular choice today in an age of mass materials, but not so popular in museums but we had to include this find.
The wreath from Kabile Parish, Kuldīga District, Latvia dated around 1800-1850, is made from cotton, silk, paper, brocade, metal, and cardboard housed in the National Museum of Latvia.
Latvia has so much folklore, however Lativas cultural contributions are so underrated. In an archive of Latvian folk songs (dainas), flower crowns or wreaths are mentioned consistently.
Combining material, written, and iconographic sources, it can be seen that fabric and paper flower wreaths were widespread throughout Latvia; earlier wreaths were documented by Johann Christoph Broce, who confirmed that at the end of the 18th century, artificial flower wreaths were commonly worn by girls with festive attire.
Photo Credit; Latvijas Nacionālais Vēstures Muzejs
The wreath from Kabile Parish, Kuldīga District, Latvia dated around 1800-1850, is made from cotton, silk, paper, brocade, metal, and cardboard housed in the National History Museum of Latvia, more infomation can be found here.
As a designer, its so important to look at the history of garments and how varied they are but also to give voice to items that may not get the most press. I love fashion!!!
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